Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Western Atlantic - Part Four: The Bore's Triumph

There was some uncertainty in the morning in Moncton as to direction. Enter Nova Scotia to the north, just to find out what a town called Pugwash might look like? Or see more Fundy bluffs to the south?

The lure of interesting names won out, though - sorry Pugwash - we just went through town in its case, but we did lunch in Tatamagouche, where you can overnight in a railroad dining car. In a stationary car, that is, though we will have to wait until some other time to experience that. However, the lunchtime seafood gumbo, an artifact of "New Scotland" early Acadian culture, was very respectable.

 This leftover boat and building, encountered not far away near a cemetery, seemed like the perfect embellishments to the water's edge.






And the gently turning colors and complex clouds just down the road from that were so magnificent.

We had come through Amherst on the way, just over the provincial border, and stopped at a nature preserve where the swamp-loving birds hang out - but alas, none for us in this dead part of the season. However, the locals had, over time, fed the black-capped chickadees so regularly that they begged food of anyone entering from the parking lot. Some others there clearly thought it charming, but I was a bit disturbed. I contrasted that with seeing a peregrine falcon the day before at the Cape Enrage national park, where it seemed more that they continued their activities relatively independently of humans, but maybe I romanticize that given the popularity of the Fundy Park areas (a well-deserved popularity I'd say.)

We overnighted in the quite workaday city of Truro, where we checked out the Tidal Bore, not as boring as you think; the incoming tide overcomes the outflowing river in a suprisingly dramatic way, and one fairly unique to Fundy area. Then we made our way through increasingly wet weather to the historically maritime town of Lunenburg, which has this wonderfully sleek vessel deeply steeped in NS history, the Bluenose II:

Then it was on to the very urban Halifax and our next lodging, just up the street from the Maritime Museum, plenty of construction and old/new contrasts, just the Halifax, ma'am:














...and finished the day with some Ramen and offerings from local Rock Bottom Brewery.

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